Wharncliffe: A Glimpse into History and Heritage

The Wharncliffe area, encompassing Wharncliffe Woods, Wharncliffe Crags, and the surrounding heath, holds a significant place in both natural and industrial history. Its rich legacy spans from prehistoric times through the industrial revolution to the present day, offering insights into human development, local industry, and the area's enduring beauty.

The Legend of the Dragon of Wantley

Wharncliffe is perhaps most famously associated with the myth of the Dragon of Wantley. The crags are said to be the setting of this legendary tale, which became widely known through a 17th-century satirical poem and an opera by Henry Carey. The legend tells the story of how the dragon was slain by More, of More Hall, who defeated the creature dwelling in a cave at the southern end of the crags. This cave, known as the Dragon's Den, is still marked on maps today. The legend even caught the attention of Sir Walter Scott, who referenced it in the opening chapter of Ivanhoe, further cementing its place in folklore. The crags, with their dramatic and rugged landscape, continue to evoke a sense of mystery and adventure.

A Landscape Shaped by Industry

Wharncliffe’s landscape has been shaped by human activity for millennia. Archaeological findings indicate that the area has been significant since the Mesolithic Period and through the Iron Age, Romano-British, Medieval, and Industrial periods. The northern section of Wharncliffe Woods is particularly renowned for its Iron Age and Romano-British grinding stone (quern) industry. The name "Wharncliffe" itself is derived from the Anglo-Saxon word “qwoern-clif,” meaning "quern cliff," a reference to the quern stone production that once took place here. This industry, which likely began around 7500 years ago, produced grinding stones used for cereal processing. It is thought that Wharncliffe may have been one of the first significant exporters of quern stones, with examples of unfinished blanks still found in the area.

The area’s historical significance is underscored by its designation as a Scheduled Ancient Monument. The landscape itself, including the heath, was likely cleared to expose the stone for working. Evidence suggests that the landscape has remained open for much of its history, although it would have been periodically returned to woodland during abandonment phases. The northern heath’s name, "Long Heath," hints at the long-standing human interaction with the land, as the heather and bracken may have been used for various local purposes.

Coppicing, Charcoal Production, and Tanning

Throughout the centuries, Wharncliffe's woodlands were a valuable resource for a range of industries. Coppicing, a sustainable method of woodland management, was widespread in the area. Trees such as hazel, chestnut, ash, and beech were regularly coppiced for use in fencing, tool handles, and furniture. The cutting cycles varied depending on the species and the products required, with some trees being cut every few years, while others, such as oak, had much longer cycles.

The production of charcoal was another important activity in the area. Charcoal, created by controlled burning of coppiced wood, played a crucial role in iron production. It provided the necessary high temperatures for smelting iron ore. Although the rise of coke as a fuel in the early 18th century diminished the demand for charcoal, it remained in use in Yorkshire for ironworking into the 1760s.

In addition, Wharncliffe’s woodlands supplied bark for the tanning industry. Oak bark was harvested, ground, dried, and transported to local tanneries where it was used to prepare tanning baths to convert animal hides into leather. The area’s woodlands were therefore integral to both the industrial processes and the local economy.

Ganister and Fireclay Extraction

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the extraction of ganister and fireclay became another industrial use of the land. Ganister, a hard, high-silica clay, was used in the production of fire bricks for the steel industry due to its ability to withstand intense heat. The western-facing slopes of Wharncliffe Woods, near the River Don, were home to several small mines extracting ganister and coal. Remains of these mining operations can still be found today in the Western Enclosure of the reserve, particularly above the electricity pylon line.

The Impact of the Railway and Victorian Leisure

The arrival of the railway in the mid-19th century had a profound impact on Wharncliffe and its surrounding areas. The Great Central Railway line, which runs along the western edge of Wharncliffe Woods, facilitated easy access to the region for leisure visitors, particularly during the Victorian era. Deepcar station, which opened in 1858, provided an important transport link for those traveling to the crags and the surrounding countryside. The romantic beauty of Wharncliffe Crags, with its distinctive rock features, attracted numerous visitors, including Sir Walter Scott, who mentioned the area in Ivanhoe.

As rail travel brought an influx of visitors to the area, Wharncliffe became an early destination for outdoor recreation, with rock climbing becoming particularly popular. The area’s rugged terrain and steep cliffs made it a challenging yet exciting location for climbers, and by the early 20th century, Wharncliffe was known as one of the premier climbing sites in the UK.

Climbing and Outdoor Pursuits

Wharncliffe Crags played a significant role in the early history of British climbing. Jimmy Puttrell, a key figure in the development of outcrop climbing in the UK, first climbed at Wharncliffe in 1885. By the turn of the century, the crags were considered the most popular climbing venue in the country, attracting climbers from across the UK, thanks to the nearby railway line. Today, Wharncliffe remains an important climbing location, offering steep, challenging routes, and is one of the few venues that has seen a decline in popularity over the last century, making it an excellent location for those seeking to escape the crowds.

The Forestry Commission and Modern Conservation

In the 1950s, Wharncliffe Wood, including the heath, was acquired by the Forestry Commission, which planted much of the area with conifers. However, the heathland remained unplanted, and the Forestry Commission’s long-term vision for the site involves gradually replacing the conifer plantations with mixed broadleaf woodlands. This plan aims to preserve the area's natural beauty while promoting biodiversity and ecological health.

A Legacy of Outdoor Recreation

Wharncliffe Woods continues to be a hub for outdoor recreation, with a range of activities taking place in its forests and on its crags. The area is especially popular among mountain bikers, with professional downhill racer Steve Peat having used it as a training ground during his career. Though there are no designated trails in the reserve, the southern part of Wharncliffe Woods remains a popular spot for mountain biking.

We invite you to explore the history through the materials provided and discover more about the lasting legacy.